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The face, with the molecules.

Eight places on the face, the cannabinoids that turn up in the lab work for each, and how far that work has gotten. This is cosmetic education. You can buy the isolates today; the finished formulas are still in development.

Fair-to-medium phototype map

Editorial portrait, fair-to-medium phototype, hair off the face.Editorial portrait, melanin-rich phototype, hair off the face.

Map

  1. T-zone and jaw

    CBCCBGTHCV

    CBC, CBG and THCV recur in in-vitro work on sebocytes and on keratinocyte inflammatory signalling — the two threads that matter to an oilier T-zone. That is bench data on cells, not a topical trial, and none of it licenses an acne claim. Read it as a reason to formulate carefully, not as an outcome.

    Models
    Cultured human sebocytes (lipogenesis markers) and keratinocytes (inflammatory cytokine expression).
    Vehicle
    Oil-free gel-cream or a light O/W emulsion; the isolate solubilized in a light ester phase, cold-processed.
    How to measure
    Sebumeter readings at fixed sites, standardized cross-polarized photography, subject-reported comfort at 2 and 4 weeks.
    Commonly paired
    Niacinamide · Zinc PCA · Salicylic acid (separate step)

    Not

    None of these isolates is approved for acne, and a cosmetic cannot claim to treat it. Comedones and cysts are a dermatologist’s territory.

    CBC isolate

Evidence

Click a step to filter the pins

01Oilier T-zoneIn vitro

In vitro

Oilier T-zone

T-zone and jaw

CBCCBGTHCV

CBC, CBG and THCV recur in in-vitro work on sebocytes and on keratinocyte inflammatory signalling — the two threads that matter to an oilier T-zone. That is bench data on cells, not a topical trial, and none of it licenses an acne claim. Read it as a reason to formulate carefully, not as an outcome.

Models
Cultured human sebocytes (lipogenesis markers) and keratinocytes (inflammatory cytokine expression).
Vehicle
Oil-free gel-cream or a light O/W emulsion; the isolate solubilized in a light ester phase, cold-processed.
How to measure
Sebumeter readings at fixed sites, standardized cross-polarized photography, subject-reported comfort at 2 and 4 weeks.
Commonly paired
Niacinamide · Zinc PCA · Salicylic acid (separate step)

Not

None of these isolates is approved for acne, and a cosmetic cannot claim to treat it. Comedones and cysts are a dermatologist’s territory.

02Fine linesEarly human

Early human

Fine lines

Crow’s feet and smile lines

CBG

The only human topical data on the map sits here: a small CBG serum study that challenged the barrier, then tracked erythema and how the skin felt. The signal was about comfort and recovery, not about line depth. It is the most useful human data we have and it is still small.

Models
A small, controlled topical study on a challenged barrier; endpoints were redness and reported comfort.
Vehicle
Serum in a squalane or caprylic/capric triglyceride base, or a light W/O emulsion for drier peri-orbital skin.
How to measure
Colorimetry or erythema index after a standard challenge, TEWL at 24 h, a validated comfort questionnaire. Photography only as support.
Commonly paired
Panthenol · Ceramides NP/AP · Squalane

Not

CBG is not a retinoid, does not stimulate collagen in any human evidence we can cite, and does nothing to muscle. No anti-wrinkle claim.

03Tight, dry cheeksPreclinical

Preclinical

Tight, dry cheeks

Cheeks

CBGACBG

CBG and CBGA turn up in barrier-related lab work — expression of barrier proteins and lipid-synthesis markers in keratinocyte models. They are not humectants and they do not hold water. Hydration on a cheek is still glycerin, occlusion and lipids; the cannabinoid is a research-stage addition to that base, not a replacement for it.

Models
Keratinocyte models reporting barrier-protein and lipid-synthesis markers; no human hydration endpoint.
Vehicle
Rich O/W cream or balm; isolate dissolved in the oil phase below 60 °C. CBGA prefers cold processing.
How to measure
Corneometer at baseline and 4 weeks, TEWL, dryness grading by a trained assessor.
Commonly paired
Glycerin · Ceramides · Shea butter · Cholesterol

Not

No anti-aging, no “repair” claim. A cosmetic moisturizes; it does not restructure the barrier.

04RednessEarly human

Early human

Redness

Central face

CBGACBG

CBG has been applied after a deliberate barrier challenge with redness tracked afterwards — a small human study, appearance endpoints only. CBGA sits beside it on mechanistic grounds. This is the strongest thread on the map and it is still a cosmetic conversation about how skin looks and feels after stress.

Models
A small topical study on challenged skin (erythema endpoint) plus in-vitro inflammatory-marker work for CBGA.
Vehicle
Fragrance-free light emulsion or gel-cream, low emulsifier load, no drying alcohol.
How to measure
Erythema index by colorimeter, cross-polarized imaging, stinging test with lactic acid, subject-reported warmth.
Commonly paired
Azelaic acid · Panthenol · Allantoin · Centella asiatica

Not

Rosacea, lupus, perioral dermatitis and any persistent facial erythema are diagnoses. We make no claim on them and neither should a label.

05PsoriasisThin evidence

Thin evidence

Psoriasis

Hairline / temples

CBGVCBGA

CBGV and CBGA appear in a handful of inflammatory-skin papers, which is the only reason they sit at the hairline. The human evidence is thin and none of it is on plaques. A cosmetic can help scale look and feel more comfortable at the margins; it cannot treat psoriasis and we do not suggest it can.

Models
Literature mentions only; no isolate-specific human data.
Vehicle
Anhydrous balm or ointment-style base for scalp margins; nothing volatile.
How to measure
Not appropriate to measure cosmetically beyond scaling and comfort grading on intact skin.
Commonly paired
Urea (low %) · Colloidal oatmeal · Petrolatum

Not

Plaque psoriasis is a medical condition. No clearing, no reduction, no severity claim.

06Thinning hairThin evidence

Thin evidence

Thinning hair

Hairline / part

CBDV

CBDV is on the map because brands ask about it for scalp products, not because there is evidence. We have no human data that any cannabinoid grows hair, and a cosmetic cannot claim to. What a scalp leave-on can honestly do is condition the skin it sits on.

Models
None specific to hair growth. Follicle-adjacent mechanism papers only.
Vehicle
Light scalp serum in a rinseable, non-comedogenic base; avoid heavy occlusives.
How to measure
Only scalp comfort and flaking are legitimate cosmetic endpoints. Hair counts are a drug endpoint.
Commonly paired
Piroctone olamine (rinse-off) · Panthenol · Caffeine

Not

Not a hair-growth product. No density, shedding or regrowth claims.

07Puff under the eyePreclinical

Preclinical

Puff under the eye

Under-eye / midface

CBNCBGA

Peri-orbital puffiness is fluid, sodium, sleep and allergy before it is anything a cosmetic can touch. CBN is discussed in the literature for itch far more than for swelling; CBGA is listed as its precursor family. Neither is a decongestant and neither drains an eye bag.

Models
Itch-related mechanism work; nothing on peri-orbital fluid.
Vehicle
Cooling gel, minimal fragrance, ophthalmologist-tested base for the peri-orbital site.
How to measure
Standardized morning photography and subject report; instruments add little here.
Commonly paired
Caffeine · Hyaluronic acid (low MW)

Not

Not allergy care, not lymphatic drainage, not a workup for medical oedema.

08ShineIn vitro

In vitro

Shine

Chin and nose

THCVCBC

THCV and CBC recur in in-vitro sebocyte work, which is why they sit at the chin and nose. It is early, it is cells in a dish, and it does not flatten shine the way a retinoid or a clay does. In a formula they belong beside proven oil-control ingredients, not instead of them.

Models
Cultured sebocytes, lipid-synthesis markers. No human sebum endpoint on these isolates.
Vehicle
Silicone-free gel or fluid with film-formers; isolate carried in a dry ester.
How to measure
Sebumeter at T-zone sites at fixed times of day; gloss photography; blotting-paper counts for a quick read.
Commonly paired
Zinc PCA · Niacinamide · Silica

Not

No sebum-reduction percentage, no pore-size claim, no “oil-free skin” promise.

How to read the map

Four words, used precisely.

Every pin carries an evidence label. The labels describe how far the research has gone, from cell work to human observation, and even the strongest label is still a cosmetic one. We describe how skin looks and feels; nothing here is intended to diagnose, treat or prevent a condition, and a product label built on this page should not do so either.

In vitro
Cultured cells or reconstructed skin models. Tells you a pathway is plausible; says nothing about a face.
Preclinical
Animal or ex-vivo human tissue. One step closer, still not a person.
Early human
A small topical study on volunteers, appearance endpoints, short follow-up. The only step that involves skin on a person.
Thin evidence
Literature mentions only. Listed because professionals ask, not because there is a result.

Bench notes

What holds for the whole group.

Chemistry a formulator can act on today, independent of any efficacy question.

  1. 01

    Lipophilic by nature

    Every isolate on this page dissolves in oils and esters, not water. Load it in the oil phase or a solubilizer; it will crash out of an aqueous gel.

  2. 02

    Heat and the acids

    CBGA converts to CBG with heat. Cold-process anything that carries an acid form and confirm the finished molecule by assay.

  3. 03

    Light and oxygen

    Cannabinoids oxidize with light and air — CBN is itself an oxidation product of THC. Opaque, airless packaging and an antioxidant system are the baseline.

  4. 04

    Assay the jar

    COA on the raw material describes what went in. Stability and assay on the finished product describe what a client puts on their face.

CBG and CBGa isolates are available today with a COA and SDS for each lot. Meliora, the finished line, is still in the lab. See the isolates.

In motion

The map, moving.

The compounds

CBG through CBGV.

Seven cannabinoids, each with what the lab work shows and what it does not.

  1. 01

    CBG

    Cannabigerol · C21H32O2 · CAS 25654-31-3

    The most-studied of the group on skin, and still lightly studied. One small topical serum study tracked erythema and reported comfort after a barrier challenge; the rest is keratinocyte and sebocyte work. Neutral, lipophilic, stable in an oil phase, and available today as a ≥99.9% isolate.

    Not Not approved for acne, rosacea or wrinkles. No collagen claim.

  2. 02

    CBGA

    Cannabigerolic acid · C22H32O4 · CAS 25555-57-1

    The acid precursor of CBG. Rich in mechanism papers, almost absent from isolated human skin work. It decarboxylates to CBG with heat, so it belongs in cold-processed formulas and stability testing should confirm which molecule survives in the jar.

    Not Not a proven skin actives claim. Assay the finished product, not the raw material.

  3. 03

    CBC

    Cannabichromene · C21H30O2 · CAS 20675-51-8

    Recurs in in-vitro models of oilier and inflamed skin, usually alongside CBG and THCV. Supplied as a viscous oil rather than a crystal, which makes it the easiest of the group to incorporate at low load in an ester phase.

    Not Not a mattifier. No sebum-percentage claim.

  4. 04

    THCV

    Tetrahydrocannabivarin · C19H26O2 · CAS 31262-37-0

    On the map for sebocyte biology in the lab, nothing more. Its consumer reputation belongs to a different conversation and has no place on a face-care label. Destination law applies when you buy the isolate.

    Not Not a mattifying drug and not an appetite or weight claim.

  5. 05

    CBN

    Cannabinol · C21H26O2 · CAS 521-35-7

    An oxidation product of THC, discussed in the literature for itch far more than for peri-orbital swelling. On this page it is a research mention at the under-eye pin; the sleep story lives on a different product and a different page.

    Not Not a sleep drop and not an under-eye drug.

  6. 06

    CBDV

    Cannabidivarin · C19H26O2 · CAS 24274-48-4

    Listed at the hairline because scalp brands keep asking. There is no human evidence that it, or any cannabinoid, grows hair. What a leave-on can honestly do is condition the scalp it sits on.

    Not Not a hair-growth product.

  7. 07

    CBGV

    Cannabigerovarin · C19H28O2 · CAS 55824-11-8

    The thinnest entry on this map: a research mention in inflammatory-skin papers, placed at the hairline for that reason only. Plaques belong with a dermatologist.

    Not Not a psoriasis therapy.

Beyond the face

Fibromyalgia isn’t on the face

THCVCBDV

It is not a dermatological condition, so it has no pin. THCV and CBDV appear in unrelated research and formulators sometimes ask about them in the same breath. They are listed here so you do not have to hunt — without an efficacy claim of any kind.

Questions

Most of the work behind these pins is bench science on cells. One thread is a small topical study on people. None of it is a medicine, and this page is written for the professionals who have to formulate, evaluate and label honestly.

Is CBG a treatment for acne?

No. CBG, CBC and THCV appear in in-vitro sebocyte and keratinocyte work. Nothing on this page is approved for acne, and a cosmetic cannot claim to treat it.

What does the evidence scale mean?

In vitro is cells or skin models in a dish. Preclinical is animal or ex-vivo tissue. Early human is a small topical study on people, usually without a long follow-up. Thin means literature mentions only. None of the three steps is a clinical claim.

Are you diagnosing rosacea or psoriasis?

No. Those are medical diagnoses and belong with a clinician. The map places compounds where the lab work sits; it does not describe a condition on your client.

Why two phototypes?

Same compounds, different considerations: post-inflammatory marks last longer on deeper skin, erythema is harder to read, and the literature describes a more reactive barrier. The vehicle and the assessment method change; the molecule does not.

How do the isolates go into a formula?

They are lipophilic crystals or oils. Dissolve them in the oil or ester phase, keep processing below 60 °C, and cold-process CBGA. Confirm the molecule in the finished product by assay, not by what went in.

Is shea butter a cannabinoid?

No. Shea is the carrier. The cannabinoids are the molecules dissolved in it.

Why isn’t fibromyalgia on the face?

It is not a dermatological condition. THCV and CBDV are listed below without an efficacy claim because formulators ask.

Can I buy a finished skin formula?

Not yet. Meliora is still in the lab. The isolates are what you can ask about now, with a COA and SDS per lot.

This page is cosmetic education from Peregrine Biopharma. It is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease, and a diagnosed skin condition belongs with a clinician.